Training your dog for vet visits

There are many steps during a veterinary visit that you can practise with your dog. It could be anything from stepping on the scale to having a blood sample taken, and everything in between. The more you practise beforehand, the less stress and fear your dog will feel during the visit, making it a much more pleasant experience.

When training your dog, it’s a good idea to think about what might happen during a vet visit. Consider your dog’s specific medical needs – is there anything particular they dislike that you need to practise? For example, if your dog has eye problems, it’s beneficial to practise looking at their eyes and administering drops calmly and positively.

Some things that are always good to practise include remaining calm and confident in new environments, general handling, and getting used to wearing a cone.

New environments

Some dogs react with stress when they enter a new environment they aren’t used to. If stress levels rise simply by arriving at the clinic, it can be difficult to conduct the examination calmly and safely. Therefore, it's important to train your dog to be comfortable in new environments.

Since the clinic environment is a bit different from other places, it might be a good idea to visit your clinic specifically for training. You could go into the waiting room, give your dog some treats or play a game so they associate the place with something positive, and then head home. Next time, you might try the scale and have a chat with the staff. Try a few positive visits before you need to attend the vet for an actual issue.

Stepping onto things – scales and tables

Weighing the dog is often the first thing staff want your dog to do upon arrival. Research shows this can be very stressful. If the dog is already stressed on arrival, it’s not a good start to the visit, making this a crucial step to practise. Luckily, you don't need a large scale at home. Practise with your dog stepping onto all sorts of things – rocks or stumps outdoors, chairs or sofa cushions inside, or even benches in the city. If your dog learns that jumping up on things or placing paws on objects is rewarding and fun, they’ll be more comfortable doing so at the clinic.

Luckily, you don't have to have a large scale at home to practice this. Train your dog to step up on all sorts of things. It could be rocks or stumps out in nature. It could be chairs or couch cushions inside, or benches in the city. If the dog learns that jumping up on things or putting his paws on things is a thing that gives rewards and is fun, the dog will be able to do this in the clinic as well.

When you do this at the clinic, it’s important that you, as the owner, don't avoid the scale, as this shows your dog it’s dangerous. Walk next to it and reward your dog when they place their paws on it. Don’t pull your dog by the lead.

The same training applies to the examination table. Practise jumping onto things at home and outside. You can also ask your clinic if it’s okay to visit and practise on a table – they’re often positive about it.

The examination

At the vet’s, your dog will undergo an examination. This often involves the vet looking into their eyes and mouth, gently pressing on their abdomen, touching their legs and paws, and listening to their heart. For specific issues like lameness or ear problems, those areas will naturally be examined more thoroughly.

To practise this, start calmly and constantly follow your dog’s responses. If your dog struggles to stay still on a table or floor, that’s where you need to begin. Gently touch different body parts and reward with a treat. If you notice a specific area causes discomfort, practise a little more there, but don’t push beyond your dog’s limits, as this could lead to fear or unease, making examination more difficult. It’s also important to practise having people other than you touch your dog, as the vet will do this during the visit.

Looking into the eyes and mouth can be slightly uncomfortable, as the dog’s head is held gently and the vet might need to open their mouth. It’s good to practise this too. Remember to take small steps and stop if your dog shows discomfort.

Taking the temperature is also often part of the examination. While difficult to practise effectively at home, you can practise gently holding your dog still and lifting their tail. It’s also helpful to take your dog’s temperature at home occasionally so you know their normal temperature.

Strange objects

During the examination, various objects unfamiliar to your dog will be used. This could be the chip reader, brushed over the neck, or the stethoscope, which might feel cold against their chest. You can practise this at home without the actual equipment – use your phone as a chip reader and a spoon as a stethoscope. Approach the object slowly, let your dog sniff it if they wish, and gently place it against the relevant body part. Reward with a treat afterwards.

Blood tests

A blood sample is often taken to rule out certain diseases, usually from the front legs or neck. While difficult to practise fully at home, you can practise holding your dog, the sound of a clippers or shaver, applying a tourniquet around the elbow, and wetting a section of the leg.

For a blood test, the dog needs to stay still for a significant period. Practising this is key. Crucially, don't hold too tightly – it usually makes things worse. Gently hold your dog’s body with one hand and their chin with the other. Also, practise on a table with the dog facing away from you, as this is often how blood is drawn. Practise for short periods to avoid boredom, and reward stillness.

Some dogs react strongly to the sound of clippers or shavers, so training this is a good idea. You can do this by simply turning on one you have at home or playing a sound on your phone. Start with the sound far away from your dog so they can get used to it. Reward them with a treat when the sound stops, helping them associate it with positive experiences.

To simulate taking a blood sample, you need to gently apply pressure to the leg. This can be practised with a hair tie or rubber band. Don't tighten it too much; loop it over the paw like a large ring and pull slightly to the side at the top. Don’t wrap it multiple times. Again, train at your dog’s pace, ensure they don’t find it unpleasant, and reward their participation.

The final step before a blood draw is cleaning the area. You can practise this by wetting a cotton pad or paper towel and gently wiping the front of the leg, followed by a reward.

The last step before sticking for a blood sample is to wet the area. This can be practiced just by soaking a piece of cotton or paper towel with water and dragging it along the front of the leg and rewarding afterwards.

X-rays

Some medical conditions require X-rays. Positioning depends on the issue, but often involves lying on their side or back. This is good to practise as it can be a difficult position, and the procedure requires the dog to be still for clear images.

You can train your dog to lie flat on their side by luring them from a lying position. Reward generously, and practise on both sides as dogs often have a preferred side. Lying on their back can be trickier. You may need to assist, as many dogs find it impossible to lie completely straight on their spine on a hard surface. Help your dog onto their back and train them to hold the position. Don’t go too fast, and ensure they’re comfortable, otherwise you risk making the vet visit more challenging.

The cone

If your dog has had a procedure, they’ll often wear a cone to prevent licking. This can be very difficult if unpractised. You can start by encouraging your dog to put their head into a cone – perhaps one made of paper or cardboard. Reward them for investigating. The next step is to train them to wear it for longer periods.

An important consideration if your dog is wearing a cone after their visit is removing it for eating, drinking, or walks.

Muzzles

Even if you don’t think your dog will ever need a muzzle, it’s a good idea to practise. There may be times when one is necessary, and it’s advantageous if it doesn’t add stress. Dogs in pain may bite out of distress, and when sedated, muzzles are often used as they may not be aware of their actions.

You can train this similarly to the cone. Let your dog put their nose in voluntarily and reward them. Gradually increase the time they wear it before fastening. Train in small, comfortable steps.

Why practise for vet visits?

You might think it’s unnecessary to train for something that happens perhaps once a year, but even a single negative vet visit can have a huge impact, potentially causing lifelong fears. A positive side effect of this training is that it strengthens your bond with your dog. And it’s fun!